All Chef Must Train Here’: Humble Turkish Eatery Earns Fourth on List of London’s Top Restaurants.

When curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar high-end establishments. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The recognition has left the family utterly surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” states the proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest place securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.